The polished edges of Colorado’s ski resorts

“Arnold Schwarzenegger was sitting exactly where you are,” the boot fitter said, as he handed me K2 Anthems at Aspen Collection, perhaps the world’s most sophisticated ski rental shop and café. “He was drinking Sancerre.” It’s an impossibly “Aspen” anecdote – where else would the Terminator sip French wine, but the resort equally famous for Champagne showers and champagne powder? Such a scene seemed perfectly fitting in Colorado, where I have come to explore Aspen and Vail – two titans of American skiing. Vail remains the more accessible of the two, its European-inspired village just 120 miles from Denver, while Aspen’s extra hundred miles of mountain road maintain that coveted layer of exclusivity.

Bouncing between the resorts, I’ve discovered a season of transformations. The new Coney Express lift at Aspen Snowmass has transformed access to its 3,300-plus acres. Beaver Creek hosted back-to-back Birds of Prey World Cup races in December, while in Golden Peak, the $4 million food hall Avanti Vail has reimagined mountain dining with food stalls inspired by European markets. Four Seasons Resort Vail continues to dominate TikTok with its signature “Haute Chocolate,” topped with melting, hand-spun dark chocolate lattice. In Aspen, beloved hotel The Little Nell maintains its position at the top, having claimed The World of Fine Wine’s “Best Hotel Wine List in the World” for both 2023 and 2024. There’s a lot to take in – here’s everything you need to know about both resorts, from slopes to après-ski.

Aspen

Where to ski

I carved my way through Aspen Mountain’s diverse terrain, across Deer Park and Dipsy Doodle, with Spar Gulch providing a classic descent. Spring tip: The locals know that spring mornings offer the best conditions – aim to hit the slopes when the snow has softened but before the afternoon warmth.

Spring events and activities

Aspen Mountain’s new outdoor mountaintop venue, Eleven212, reimagines alpine revelry in a vibrant après atmosphere. Operating select weekends throughout winter, it perfectly blends mountain heritage with modern comfort.

Art enthusiasts shouldn’t miss “Heaven,” transforming the historic Ruthie’s restaurant into Aspen’s first ski-in, ski-out exhibition space. Open March 7-16, 2025, this Aspen Art Museum collaboration features artist Alex Israel’s 30 life-size portraits of cultural figures who have passed since Instagram’s 2010 launch.

For early risers, the Friday Morning Uphill Breakfast Club at Buttermilk’s Cliffhouse restaurant continues through April 4, while adrenaline seekers can witness snowboarding history when Shaun White’s professional Snow League makes its world debut at Buttermilk Mountain from March 7-8, 2025.

Closing celebrations vary across all four mountains: Aspen Mountain and Snowmass wrap up on April 20, Aspen Highlands on April 13, and Buttermilk on April 6, 2025.

Where to stay

Limelight Aspen

Downtown, I found Limelight Aspen strikes the perfect balance between Aspen’s chi-chi vibe and a laid-back, Rocky Mountain feel. The Limelight Lounge offers a communal, firelit dining space where families gather for pizza and music. My Deluxe Queen Room came equipped with practical amenities including a sink, refrigerator and coffee maker. The outdoor pool and hot tubs provided welcome relief after a day on the slopes, while two rooftop terraces offer perfect spots for evening relaxation with mountain views.

Book: limelighthotels.com/aspen

The Little Nell

As America’s only five-star, five-diamond ski-in/ski-out property, The Little Nell now features a renovated spa that includes ski-in/ski-out access. Dog-friendly staff provide thoughtful touches like water bowls and treats at check-in. Rooms feature king beds, original art and gas log fireplaces. The heated outdoor pool and sauna operate until 10 p.m., while the secluded outdoor hot tub beckons at any hour.

Book: thelittlenell.com

Eating and drinking

Michelin Guide-approved Element 47 at the Little Nell showcases their world-renowned wine list alongside fresh house-made pasta – try the sourdough lobster pasta or wagyu carpaccio with rosemary, truffle and pistachio crumb. Even four-legged guests dine well, with special menu options including chicken and salmon ($19) served in silver bowls.

French Alpine Bistro offers classic fondue entertainment – I loved the blend of four Swiss cheeses (greatly enhanced with white wine and Kirschwasser). For innovative Colorado cuisine, Prospect at Hotel Jerome presents their “Taste of the Land” menu, featuring dishes inspired by local regions from Independence Pass to Palisade’s orchards.

Vail

The two-hour drive to Vail along Highway 82 unfolds like a Rocky Mountain picture book. At 5,317 acres, Vail remains Colorado’s largest resort by acreage.

Where to ski

A local directed me toward my favorite discovery – Vail’s seven Back Bowls – these are the resort’s crown jewels, extending into pristine wilderness. The enhanced lift connectivity has improved navigation between areas while reducing congestion. From Chair 4’s summit (11,250 feet), skiers can tackle a 3,000-vertical-foot descent to Gondola One’s base. Swingsville and Ramshorn runs leading to Mid-Vail remain popular choices.

Spring events and activities

Vail’s spring calendar rivals its powder days for excitement. Film buffs can swap ski boots for evening wear at the Vail Film Festival (March 30-April 2), while foodies should mark the calendar with the Taste of Vail (April 5-8).

The Express Lift Bar has spread sixteen Après days (upcoming on April 5&6) throughout the season – imagine a European beer hall vibe, with fire pits and tunes. Après at the Amp (April 4-5) brings live music by Goth Babe, Jungle and others, all under the stars at Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater. Need a grand finale? The Vail Après End of Season Bash on April 18 is your last shot to toast the season with a proper community shindig: music, food, drinks and one last chance for the most competitive to show off – sign up for the Vail Social Ski Race from 1-3 p.m. at Golden Peak. 

Vail’s planned closing date is April 20, 2025.

Where to stay

The Hythe

Following a $40 million renovation, the Hythe represents Vail’s newest luxury destination. The Well & Being Spa features CBD manicures and a Himalayan salt therapy room, while Recovery rooms offer muscle stimulator technology. Daily complimentary s’mores and hot chocolate on the outdoor patio made my day, and the Mountain Ration Grab & Go shop provides convenient breakfast options if you’re in a rush to get up there.

Book: thehythevail.com

Four Seasons Resort and Residences Vail

Four Seasons Resort Vail keeps raising the bar – from that famous drinking chocolate to the arrival of Denver’s Michelin-approved Tavernetta, while their Ski Concierge service is the last word in convenience. The renovated spa features outdoor treatment rooms, plunge pools and steam rooms. Rooms offer deep baths, high ceilings and fireplaces – heaven.

Book: Fourseasons.com/vail

Eating and drinking

Michelin-recommended Sweet Basil’s whipped feta arrives with a dramatic carta di musica cracker, complemented by black olive fermented garlic honey. Their tempura mahi tacos and bone marrow pho with scallop showcase the kitchen’s range, ending with a sticky toffee pudding cake that still shows up in my dreams. From Terminator-approved wine bars to world-class slopes, these resorts still prove worthy of their legendary status.

Getting there

Access options include Eagle County Regional Airport, Denver International Airport (offering more flight choices with a longer drive), and Aspen/Pitkin County Airport (ASE) for direct access to Aspen.